I traded the Armada in (with 62,348 miles — just over 17k in 14 months) for a 2015 Mustang with the 2.3L EcoBoost engine yesterday. It’s got 41,000 miles.



Brake flush and bleed; AC work

Kevin helped me flush the front brakes last weekend, and I did the rears last night. It improved the brake feel slightly, but the pedal still slowly sinks to the floor. Need to figure out why. Also, I need to inspect the pads and rotors.

I jumpered the low pressure side switch (on the dryer cylinder) and that made the air conditioning compressor come on. It appears the system is undercharged. I didn’t have enough refrigerant to fix it, but I’ve got more on order from Amazon.

~370,500 miles

97 truck to-dos


Change brake fluid and bleed brakes

Inspect brake pads and rotors

Change transmission oil and filter

Change front and rear diff oil

Change transfer case oil

Change power steering fluid

Flush coolant system and replace with pink: research Evapo-Rust Thermocure versus the standard Prestone flush
— this ties into the grease project because it requires tying into the coolant lines, so that’s the best time to do the coolant drain/flush procedure




Get camper shell

Better fuel filtration solution (add electric pump?)

Replace exhaust system or add a tip

Replace tires and rims; get a spare tire and rim

Replace or paint tailgate

Replace rear passenger side window regulator

Install some sort of kill switch solution — perhaps a 6-position chip

Hook up front LED lights

Replace dash pad

Replace headlight

Replace reverse bulbs with brighter ones

Install grease system

Fix air conditioning

Rebuild turbo

Rebuild front end

– What all do I need?

Inspect driveline U-joints; R&R front driveshaft U-joint if necessary; reinstall front driveshaft

97 truck update

I had all eight injectors (which were AA code, and apparently one was definitely bad) replaced with some 5000ish-mile AB code injectors. The guy who did the work is Uriah Baldonado, who also lives in Los Lunas. I traded him the three dirt bikes for the injectors and the work, and kept the existing AA code injectors.

The truck has considerably more power now. It still smokes on a cold startup, but at least part of that has to be one bad glow plug. It makes noticeably more boost, too — it tops out at about 11 psi now, whereas before I could only get about 5 psi out of it.

Uriah advised me that the turbo does need to be rebuilt; he said the compressor wheel is really chewed up. Also, one of the hood hinges needs to be adjusted or replaced.

Uriah did say my under valve cover harnesses (UVCH) are new or nearly so.

Also, Uriah replaced all the injector o-rings with new ones prior to installation. That really made a difference; the truck no longer smells like it’s burning oil.

1997 F-350 no start condition

I found last night that the F-350 has a bad glow plug relay, as well as three bad glow plugs.

Left/passenger side, from rear of truck to front: bad (also had a bent pin in the connector, which was contributing to the problem); good; good; bad (so the two outers bad, two inners good)

Right / driver side, from rear of truck to front: good; good; bad; good.


I found eight supposedly genuine new Motorcraft ZD-11 glow plugs on eBay for $25 (if they are genuine, that’s a third of the cost) and a new Motorcraft DY861 glow plug relay on Amazon for $50. They’re on the way.


I had the fairing off to adjust the headlights on the XB12R and took the opportunity to identify the ECM. It’s got a stock XB12R ECM.

That’s interesting because its exhaust has two outlets. I thought only the race exhausts had two outlets.